Un weekend in Cluj-Napoca

Cum nu m-am plimbat de mult, am zis sa fac la sfarsit de octombrie o vizita prin Cluj-Napoca. De ce am aici ? Sincer, nu stiu, vroiam sa fug din Bucuresti si cum nu am ajuns niciodata in Cluj, parea o idee buna. Este cel mai mare oras din judetul Cluj, fiind resedinta de judet si are o istorie la fel de lunga ca si tara noastra, primele atestari documentare ale unei asezari in aceasta zona aparand inca de prin anii 100.

Zis si facut, am cautat repede cazare, m-am interesat de tren si cateva zile mai tarziu am si plecat.

Dupa 9 ore si jumatate cu trenul, plus intarzierea de o ora si jumatate ( am plecat pregatit cu o carte pentru acest drum 😛  ), am ajuns in Cluj, la o ora destul de matinala 5:40 AM. Imediat cum am ajuns am fost placut impresionat de acest oras, deoarece toata Piata Garii mirosea a…. paine. Paine proaspat facuta si calda, yuuuuum 🙂 Si cum nu exista ora prea devreme sau prea tarzie pentru un calator, am avut prima mea impresie asupra Clujului nocturn si cum mi-am facut temele de acasa, am cautat imediat dealul Cetatuii unde avem o vedere superba asupra intregului oras. Astfel am avut ocazia de a admira un rasarit de soare superb alaturi de o bautura calda… o zi noua, un oras nou, o aventura noua.

Ce nu imi place la acest oras este faptul ca pare sa fie foarte anti turistic. In primul rand, nimic nu este marcat. Muzeele nu erau marcate, nu existau indicatoare, avand sansa mare sa trec pe langa ele fara sa stiu ca sunt acolo (am ratat astfel cateva lucruri), la fel si cu bisericile mai importante ale orasului. Este foarte ridicol sa intrebi in interiorul unei biserici in ce cladire te afli… In al doilea rand, programul haotic al muzeelor. In toata tara programul muzeelor este de marti pana duminica, in cateva cazuri fiind inchise poate si marti. In Cluj am gasit destule muzee inchise in weekend, cand oamenii au timp liber, dar deschise luni…. ironic nu? Astea au fost singurele lucruri neplacute 🙂

Trecand acum la lucrurile frumoase, trebuie sa recunosc ca in Cluj exista cate ceva pentru orice fel de turist. Cladiri vechi in stiluri arhitecturale superbe, care iau ochii oricarui om care apreciaza frumosul; Parcuri superbe cat si o gradina botanica mare si absolut minunata; O istorie bogata spusa de oras, de statui si monumente, de case vechi si cladiri importante; O gama variata de muzee inedite, de la arta, la zoologie, la farmacie si multe altele, toate bine puse la punct; Biserici multe, vechi, superbe, ce trebuie vazute de afara dar neaparat si din interior (am facut chiar si un tur al bisericilor din Cluj). Oameni de treaba, foarte prietenosi si ajutatori; Si aparent pentru cei interesati, chiar si proteste pentru Rosia Montana (ca in muuuulte alte orase). Toate acestea le gasiti in Cluj, fara sa fie nevoie sa le cautati prea tare.

Despre toate muzeele pe care le-am vizitat o sa va vorbesc in postarile viitoare, despre cum am reusit sa cad in fund la gradina botanica, sau despre superbul muzeu al farmaciei pe care imi era frica ca il ratez. Prefer sa va spun acum despre parcul central si aleile sale frumoase, acoperite partial de frunze de toamna . Cu micile „râuri” ce incadreaza aleea principala a parcului si in care gasim castane cazute si cu zeci de podulete lungi de un metru ce traverseaza aceste râuri. Vreau sa va zic despre toti oamenii iesiti in weekend pentru o plimbare relaxanta, unii singuri, unii in grupuri, toti cu voie buna, uniii cu catei, unii in barcute pe lac facand intrecere cu „lebedele”.  Si despre vechiul cazino ce sta in centrul parcului alaturi de o fantana unde oamenii se aduna pentru o vorba de seara.

Seara totul este luminat. Cladirea cazinoului, parcul, bisericile din tot orasul, diverse cladiri vechi si impunatoare, si cele mai importante locatii fiind Piata Unirii si Piata Avram iancu. Amandoua pietele fiind locuri de adunare, pentru oamenii orasului si totusi Piata Avram Iancu este un pic mai speciala. Seara de la 8, in toata piata se aud ritmuri de muzica clasica, oamenii stand pe bancute, in picioare, sau pe treptele Catedralei ce domina piata, toti ascultand cu placere muzica si admirand frumoasa fantana ce in timpul noptii este colorata aparte (dupa cum puteti vedea mai jos).

Si gurmanzii nu vor fi nici ei dezamagiti de Cluj. Centrul orasului este pietonal, cu multe terase, baruri, cafenele si restaurante, de unde puteti alege ce va pofteste inima si burta mai mult. La ceainaria Demmers Teehaus am avut ocazia sa savurez un ceai foarte foarte bun si cum imi plac foarte mult ceaiurile am plecat acasa si cu cateva sortimente de ceai la pachet :)) Deasemenea domnisoara de la ceainarie a fost foarte draguta si mi-a dat indicatii catre un restaurant Irish unde am mancat o pizza al naibii de buna.

O aventura placuta, cu privelisti frumoase si multa cultura. Acesta este Clujul pe care l-am vazut eu, a meritat, merita, si as mai veni si altadata. Cateva fotografii mai jos si la revedere 🙂

ENGLISH:

Since i didn’t travel in a while, i decided at the end of October to take a trip through Cluj-Napoca. Why here? Sincerely, i don;t know, i wanted to run away from Bucharest and since i have never been to Cluj before, it seemed like a good idea. It is the biggest city in the state of Cluj, being  the Capital of the state, with a history as long as our country, being attested in writing since around the year 100.

This said and done, i looked up lodging, traint schedule and a few days later i was on my way.

After 9 and a half hours on the train, plus an hour and a half of delay (i had a book with me for this long train ride), i arived in Cluj-Napoca and a very early hour 5:40 Am. Imediatly i was pleasently surprised by this city, because in the Trainstation Square, there was a strong smell of… bread. Freshly baked warm bread, yuuuuum 🙂 And since there is no hour to early or too late for a traveler, i had my first impresion of a nocturnal Cluj and since i did my homwork before i left, i imediatly started looking for the „Fortress Hill” where i had asuperb view of the whole city. Thus i had the ocasion of admiring a superb sunrise in the company of a warm drink… A new day, a new city, a new adventure.

What i do not like about this city is the fact that it seems anti turistic. First, nothing was marked. The museums were not marked by indicators, having a big chace to walk right by them without knowing they were there (i missed a few things because of this), the same thing with the important churches as well. It is very ridiculous to be inside a church and have to ask someone: „What building am i in ?” Second, The chaotic museum schedules. In all the country, museums are omen from Tuesday to Sunday, in some cases they might be closed on Tuesday also. In Cluj, i found quite a few museums closed in the weekend, when everybody has free time, but pened on monday… ironic no? These were the only unpleasant things here 🙂

Moving now to more pleasant things, i must admit that Cluj has a bit of something for every tourist. Old buildings in many different architectural styles, that take the eyes af anyone; Beautiful parks and a huge and amazing Botanic Garden; A rich hystory being told by the city, the statues and monuments, by the old houses and important buildings; A wide gama of museums, from art to zoology, to farmacy and more, all very wonderfull; Lots of churches, old and amazing that must be seen from the outside as well as the inside ( I even did a tour of the city’s churches). Nice people, very friendly and helpfull; And apparently for those interested, a few protests for „Rosia Montana” (like in soooooo many other cities). Al of these you can find in Cluj, without searching too hard…

About all the museums i visited i will talk in future posts, about how i managed to fall on my butt while visiting the botanical garden, or about the amazing Pharmachy museum that i was afraid i was going to miss. I would rather tell you now about the central park and it’s beautiful alleys, covered partialy in autumn colored leafs. With tiny „rivers” along the main alley of the park, where we find fallen chestnuts and douzins of small 1 meter bridges crossing these rivers. I want to tell you of all the people who were out for a relaxing stroll through the park, some alone, some in groups, all happy, some with dogs, some in boats on the park’s small lake, racing with the „swans”. About the old casino building standing in the middle of the park next to an amazing waterfountain where people would gather for some evening gossip.

In the evening everything lights up. The old casino building, the park, all the churches around the city, different old buildings and the most important locations in the evening being Unirii Square and Avram Iancu Square. Both squares are gathering places for the people of Cluj, and yet Avram iancu Square is a bit more special. In the evenings, starting at 8 o’clock, the whole square is floded with the rythms of classical music, with people sitin on benches, some standing and some siting on the stairs of the Cathedral that dominates this Square, all listening to the music and admiring the waterfountain that lights up at night in many many colors (as you can see below).

People who enjoy a good dinner will not be let down by Cluj. The center of the city is made for pedestrians, with lots of
terraces, bars, pubs, coffee shops and restaurants, where you can pick whatever your hearth and belly desires. At Demmers Teehaus, i had the ocasion to enjoy an amazing tea and since i like tea alot, i could not help myself but buy some for home as well. Also the nice lady at the tea shop gave me instructions to this cozy Irish place where i had a damn good pizza.

A pleasant adventure, with amazing sights and lots of culture. This is the Cluj that i saw, it was worth it, it is worth it and i would go again anytime. A few photos below and goodbye 🙂

 

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